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Few Small Diamonds: Large stones, simply set, also came into vogue. An American best seller was a 25- or 30-carat emerald-cut aquamarine or amethyst, set in gold or platinum and flanked by a few small diamonds. In Europe an 18-carat gold setting often held a 20- or 30-carat cabochon, imperial jade or opal, flanked by small rubies, sapphires and diamonds. These were set irregularly to give an ever-changing pattern of color rather than an orderly design.
Metric Carat.— The basic unit used in t weighing of diamonds, pearls, and other precic stones is the metric carat of 200 milligrai (3.086 grains troy). This was adopted by t United States in 1913 and is in effect practica universally throughout the world. The so-call international carat of 205 milligrams, used befc the adoption of the metric carat, was very neai the value of the old English carat. The met) carat is divided decimally. Another mode of ( vision is into 4 diamond grains, sometimes i ferred to as carat grains, and each of these grai is then subdivided into 16 parts. The term "carais derived from the name of a small, hard bean, formerly used to weigh diamonds. The carat used in weighing diamonds is quite different from karats as used to define the purity of gold alloys, a karat in that case being one part of gold in 24 of the alloy.
Faceting - first started by Indian cutters polishing small facets on diamonds - soon became applied to other stones. Thus evolved the brilliant, step and mixed cuts, which depend on various facets being ground and polished in symmetrical arrangements on the stones. The facets on a diamond are cut and polished in one operation but other precious stones have their facets first ground and then subsequently highly polished.
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